Hang it up and give it a break

Source: The Sartorialist

Some of my clients wear their suits out too fast.

I have had customers tell me their suits don't normally last. This can be a quality issue where the suit is not fully canvassed and the fabric is of poor quality but usually it's a care problem. Never wear the same suit two days running. Hang the suit on a proper shaped hanger after wearing it and give it at least 24 hours to allow the fibres to relax and any moisture to dissipate. If it gets creased don't dry clean it. Ask the dry cleaner to press it only so the steam will rejuvenate the suit without the harsh chemicals that break down the wool fibres. Only dry clean your suit if it has visible dirt marks.

The professional man should have at least four suits in his wardrobe at any one time that they rotate daily: a dark blue suit, a pin-striped suit, a grey suit and a summer suit. This gives longevity to all your suits and the opportunity to select the appropriate colour and style for the situation.

Pernac has suits in pure wool from $449 in summer weights and from $549 in mid season weights.

Light Grey for Summer

Classic Navy

Blue Pinstripe

Charcoal Grey

The Tailor

This is a great short film about one of the classic pitfalls of tailoring...

Best Dressed World Leaders

Source: Scabal

Watching President Barack Obama recently make his "We got Osama" speech made me think how presidential he always looks. No doubt about it - he really dresses the part of President of the United States. Obama is usually in a plain grey or plain blue tailored suit with the only splash of colour a plain coloured tie. This is such a classic look and he uses it to project authority and charisma. Obama has his suits tailored by Georges de Paris who is a prominent Washington tailor. His style is classic, understated and above all consistent. In my mind he is easily the worlds best dressed leader.

Source: The Independent

President Sarkozy of France is a bit of an Obama clone. Never backward in his love of the US this also goes to the way he dresses. He has been described variously as a JFK throwback or like Sinatra but I think he takes his fashion cues from Obama.

Source: Petermartin

Modern Australian leaders don't have anywhere near Obama's style and you would have to go back to Paul Keating and his Italian double breasted suits in the 80's to get close. He could never shake the undertaker monika with his long chin and permanent 5 oclock shadow but his suits were well cut and gave him a powerful look. He would have been better in single breasted jackets to soften himself a little.

Source: London Lounge

Dead for nearly 50 years JFK was and still is a style icon. I doubt there will ever be someone like him in politics anywhere in the world again but he sure knew how to dress so women wanted him and men wanted to be him.

Who is your best dressed world leader?

Button Up

(Source: The Sartorialist)

(Source: Essential Style for Men)

It's not universally understood how to button a jacket up. Convention dictates that the last button is never done up and this stems from King Edward VII. As he put on weight he unbuttoned the last button on his jacket to give him some relief and the gentry followed suit. The convention has stuck probably because it is a less rigid way of wearing a jacket and looks better as well.

Always leave the bottom jacket button unbuttoned to be sartorially correct.

Ties Maketh the Man

(Source: A Suitable Wardrobe)

These days ties are worn less and less because our office environments are more casual but wearing a tie displays your individuality and style, and is usually the crowning glory to your look or the reason why it's a disaster. If you want to pull it off the thing to remember is that your tie should complement your outfit - not the other way around.

Ties look best when they contrast with your suit fabric with either their colour or texture. If you are wearing a patterned suit it's hard to wear a striped or patterned tie successfully as usually they will clash. Wearing a plain tie complements the pattern in the suit. Wearing a plain suit you can wear a striped or patterned tie but only with a plain shirt so the patterns won't clash. The best option is to own a number of plain coloured ties that can be rotated with your suits plus a few elegant striped or patterned ties for a more striking look.


Below are a sample of the selection of ties available at Pernac in hand made in silk.

Midnight Blue Plain Satin Silk $49

Basket Weave Purple Silk $49

Basket Weave Blue Silk $49

Autumn Colour

(Source: Sartorialist via GQ)

With the milder morning temperatures, the leaves starting to turn and daylight saving about to finish this Sunday I'm really feeling autumnal. Dressing for autumn means an extra layer or a thicker existing layer. This is when we wear our jackets for warmth as well as fashion.

Autumn is all about grey and windy skies and is the moodiest of the seasons and we can reflect this in our clothes. Be bold and instead of wearing plain or striped fabrics wear squares and checks and also bright colours for an uplifting mood and the warmth they give us.

Tailored Overcoats

Winter will be upon us very soon. We're lucky it doesn't get too cold on mainland Australia but we do need something to cover our jackets during June, July and August to keep the elements at bay when outside. Wool and cashmere fabrics between 300gr and 430gr are perfect for our climate as they keep the cold at bay but are supple enough to still drape beautifully. Choose a neutral colour with black, blue and grey the best choices in plains or herringbones. The Pernac coat pictured is fashionable in a 300gr grey herringbone with epaulettes on the shoulders, a black velvet collar, black buttons and stitching. Perfect for a mild winter. You may also consider wearing a pocket square in your coat's breast pocket if it has one.

Pernac have coat fabrics in 100% wool at $549 and $749 and 100% cashmere at $999.

Colours, Patterns and Textures

(Source: Overseaspropertymall)

More than two different colours, patterns and textures in combination is very hard to successfully pull off and even if you do you'll draw attention to yourself. If that's not the aim of the game (and it usually is not) it's best to stick to just two colours, patterns or textures in your combination. To complete your look make sure you wear a matching belt to your shoes and your socks should be the same colour as your suit.

(Source: Soundoffcolumn)

David Beckham is known more for his street fashion but when he wears a suit he usually gets it right. Here at top he wears a classic grey suit and white shirt combination but the feature is the black textured tie. Below he is in a modern cut blue suit with white shirt but again the tie is the feature in a striking red satin silk. Keep it simple with the focus on one element and you can't go wrong.

Best Fit For Your Shape

(Source: Culture Shoq)

Daniel Craig is one of the best dressed men in the world. He is lucky to have height and build in perfect proportion, so looking good in clothes is easy. For most of us though we have to compromise on the fit of our clothes. Men can benefit greatly from tailor made clothes by using tricks to emphasise your best attributes and mask your worst. Below are some styling tips for different body shapes.

Short

You want to create length so stay away from squared patterned fabrics. Have your jacket a few centimeters shorter to make your legs appear longer. Don't have the shoulders of your jacket wider than the end of your shoulders. Taper the waist and have a long lapel on a 2 button single breasted jacket. Never have pleats or turn ups on your trousers and ensure your trouser length is not too long - just a small break to emphasise the vertical.

Fat

Like short men keep away from squared patterned fabrics. You want to keep the eye away from the stomach so keep your jacket closed when you wear it and put a colourful pocket square in your handkerchief pocket. Avoid double breasted jackets as they have more fabric and accentuate the stomach. A pleat in your trousers will give you room and make your stomach appear smaller. Trouser length should be the same as short men.

Thin

Your shoulder line should be close fitting and the jacket needs a narrow waist to make the shoulders appear broad. The jacket can be slightly longer by a few cm but if the shoulders are too wide it will look too big on you. Trousers can be a little longer but shouldn't bunch up at the back of the shoe.

Pernac can advise on the right mix of fit and style to make the most of any body shape.

Fit is Paramount

(Source: Black Tie Guide)

The fit of your suit is the most important element to get right. A badly fitting $3,000 suit will look terrible on you whilst a well fitting $500 suit will have you looking and feeling fantastic. Brad Pitt shows this to be true with his designer tuxedo sleeves and trouser hems too long. Whilst the rest of the suit fits him pretty well the eye just can't get past the super long sleeves and trousers. These are very simple alterations to make on an off the rack suit and essential elements to get right on a tailor made suit.

Having a tailor made suit ensures that the fit is right whatever your body shape so when you wear it you will look and feel great. There are some things that can be done to enhance your strengths and mask the weaknesses and I'll expand on these in the next post.

Classic Blue Suit

(Source: The Gentlemen's Standard)

To go with your classic plain charcoal grey suit your second classic suit should be a navy blue pinstripe. This can be with a single or double breasted jacket although if you are younger then you will probably want to have the single breasted jacket. If you are in the financial or legal world a pinstripe is a fabric that gives the wearer both style and authority and even more so with a double breasted jacket.

(Source: Dapper Kid)

If you lean towards a more modern approach to style consider a plain navy single breasted suit. This suit is the most versatile suit you will ever own. As well as wearing the suit dressed up or down as you like with different shirt, tie and pocket square combinations, you can simply wear the jacket with your charcoal grey trousers as a combination suit, more casually with chinos or even more casually with jeans.

(Source: The Sartorialist)

Accessorize your navy suit with brown shoes instead of black. Brown is the more classic partner for navy and as most wear black it stands out and makes a statement. Pair your shoes with a matching brown belt with a gold buckle to complete a classic look.

Pernac have blue pinstripe and plain fabrics in all ranges. 100% wool in 100's, $549. Super 110's, $849. Super 130's, $999. Dormeuil, $1,399.

Mad Men Style

(Source: The Age)

The Mad Men TV series has recently inspired both women and mens fashion in Europe and the US and now it has gone mainstream here. At the Myer Autumn/Winter Fashion Launch yesterday the catwalk was overrun with Mad Men glamour. On show were stylish dinner suits with close fitting and narrow peak lapel jackets accessorised with the obligatory white folded pocket square. It's a classic but timeless look and was finished off beautifully with slicked down hair and dark rimmed spectacles.

(Source: The Age)

Also on show were fifties style three piece suits in sombre greys and checks. The addition of a waistcoat really does maketh the man!

Pernac can tailor make a Mad Men suit which includes a tight fit, narrow lapels and slanted pockets and we have lots of Mad Men style fabrics including plain grey and end on end fabrics as well as wool/mohair mixes which give the fabric that translucent sharkskin sheen so popular in the late fifties and early sixties.

The Three Piece Suit is Back

(Source: Den of Geek)

Seen most recently in street wear the waistcoat has made a welcome return to suits. I have recently been watching the 70's police drama "The Sweeney" and everyone wore three piece suits, even when they were apprehending villains and celebrating down the pub. Those waistcoats were single breasted 10 to 12 buttons or double breasted and buttoned very high but we are now seeing much lower buttoned single breasted waistcoats with 5 or 6 buttons.

(Source: Simon Spurr)

Waistcoats are a superb addition to a suit that make a great fashion statement and give the wearer a sense of style. Current fashion is that the waistcoat should be in the same fabric as the suit and be very fitted along with the jacket. A three piece suit gives the wearer more versatility and because the waistcoat is close fitting creates a slimming effect.

All Pernac tailor made suits can be made with a waistcoat and there are five styles to choose from.

Classic First Suit

(Source: Ask Men)

How do you build a suitable wardrobe? Of course this depends on your personal circumstances but everyone needs at least one suit. Like Leonardo let's start with what should be every man's first suit choice - the charcoal grey single breasted.

This is the most versatile suit colour and shape and can be worn in any situation. It's appropriate in all work settings, weddings, funerals and all social engagements. Grey suits all skin tones and those with darker skin should choose a lighter grey. A single breasted jacket is modern and timeless and suits all body shapes. Trousers can be pleated or cuffed at the bottom or flat fronted with no cuffs as you like.

Add your own personality to your look by pairing your suit with a smart shirt and tie combination. Go with the classic combination of a white shirt and either a grey or black tie, or create a bigger impact with a bright pink or purple tie. Mid-grey and pale blue are also good shirt matches for charcoal grey. Most wear black shoes and belt with charcoal grey but brown is the more classic and sophisticated look. Finally finish off your look with a pocket square to match your shirt or tie.

Pernac have fabrics in charcoal grey in all ranges. 100% wool in 100's, $549. Super 110's, $849. Super 130's, $999. Dormeuil, $1,399.

Summer Linen

Image source: The Sartorialist via Dandy Fashioner

I wear linen when it's above 28 degrees. It makes me look and feel cool and I am dressed properly with a casual feel which is nice in the heat.

Every man should have at least two or three linen suits in his summer wardrobe. With linen you can mix and match and dress it up or down - and the great thing about linen is it is easy to care for and it looks even better when it creases.

Linen shines in natural colours like beige, camel, brown, white and olive. Darker linens lend themselves to more formal situations. Dress up a linen suit with a crisp shirt, pocket square and tie. For a more casual look lose the tie and team the jacket with a pair of jeans and a light cotton shirt or just wear the trousers with an open neck linen shirt. Wear leather sandals instead of shoes and roll your jacket sleeves up for an Italian look. Linen also lends itself to accessories. A Panama hat, scarf, leather or metal bracelets and maybe even a vest.

The gentleman above has nailed the linen look with his terrific personal style and the fit of his suit. A tailor made linen suit can be had at Pernac from $549 and below is a lovely rich brown fabric that is both stylish and versatile.

Visit Pernac to find out how to create your own design tailor made linen suit.